Part Two of Two: Ameria's Best Idea and My Greatest Trip!
Patrick EdmondsZion National Park
In the closing of the last entry I described Zion as imposing, and upon further reflection, I feel this is a poor choice of words. Yellowstone was imposing due the sheer size of it. Zion isn’t nearly as large, but it is still quite grand. However, the more appropriate description for the cliffs of Zion is intimidating.
When we had finally arrived at the lodge, we didn’t have to travel far, or at all for that matter, to get a sense of how daunting these cliffs really were. I remember thinking to myself, “Am I really going to be climbing one of those?” Fortunately or unfortunately, the answer was yes.
Before we got to Zion, we made a stop at a grocery store nearby to pick up some cooking supplies, but once we arrived we found out that we were not allowed to cook any food due to the risk of fires. So, we packed our food away and headed to the Lodge’s restaurant for what turned out to be a very enjoyable meal. Afterwards, we went back to our nicely air-conditioned room and mapped out our plans for the following day. Compared to Yellowstone, we were living in the lap of luxury, but I wasn’t going to complain at this point. After some deliberation, we decided to choose Angel’s Landing, which is apparently the most strenuous hike Zion has to offer. If you remember the Yellowstone Day Two entry, I explained that our guide explained that by choosing the most challenging hikes, we were considered weirdoes. Looking up at the cliffs I was going to climb the next day, I’ve never wanted to be more normal in my life.
We woke up extremely early to get a head start on the hike because it supposedly took about four hours to complete and there were other sights we wanted to see with our sole day in the park. We were greeted by an intense smell of smoke upon opening the door. Apparently there were a number of fires throughout the park started from the extremely hot and insanely dry conditions. Due to the smoke the early morning sun was completely hidden, which would be a shame later on our hike. We set out at about 8 A.M. The beginning of the trail was a half-mile from our lodge. There were shuttles, but we figured if we’re going to hike five miles, what’s another half? The early portion of the climb wasn’t anything too intense. It was steep and windy, but the path wasn’t nearly as challenging as Avalanche Peak in Yellowstone. It was actually very artificial, which I didn’t really like. Also, the landscape, while overwhelming with beautiful rocks, jutting out in all different directions, didn’t offer the same diverse scenery as Yellowstone. On this particular trail, the narrow straits limit one’s perspective and create an heir of claustrophobia.
The first two miles of the two and half mile trek up the cliff were not too frightening at all. You see, I had prior knowledge of this hike well before we left for this trip. A friend of mine’s wife, who is an avid hiker and traveler, had been to Zion and told me in great detail about Angel’s Landing. Her mere description incited a trepidation in me that I had not experienced in a long time. So, as we were making our way up to the peak, I started to think that she had embellished the intensity of this climb. I couldn’t have been more wrong. As we got farther up, the path became much more natural, precarious and demanding. With about half a mile remaining there is a sign that says Steep Cliffs! Stay Away From The Edges! To emphasize this point they have a wonderful graphic of a man falling off a cliff. Oh, but they did have chains sticking out of the side of the cliff in case you do slip. How thoughtful.
As we traversed the rugged terrain, the cliff and view started to open up more so just in case you weren’t sure if you were embarking upon the worst decision of your life, it was quickly verified for you. We reached one point that I thought was the peak of the precipice, but I was again unfortunately mistaken. There was a man from the Netherlands sitting on a rock whose hands were trembling. He explained that the rest of his party had continued ahead, and that’s when I looked up to see another 150 feet remaining. Of course this is where the rock conveniently opens up the widest for a perfect view of the 1,400 feet below.
Becky and Sean wasted no time walking over the very narrow path. I, on the other hand, waited to way my options with the man from the Netherlands. Could I turn away from one of my greatest fears, heights, and feel like I still accomplished something on this trip? Or, should I face my greatest fear, shame, and muster up the chutzpa and face this monster and wrestle it to the ground? My friend’s wife would be happy to know I went with the latter of the two and ditched the weak foreigner and followed Sean and Becky over the path and up the side of the cliff. Actually, Sean simply peer pressured me into it by yelling that it wasn’t that bad on the other side of the narrow path. What can I say, I just can’t say no to peer pressure. Aside from beer, this was my next favorite thing to have been pressured into.
Climbing up a few more fake steps and clinging to a few more chains and I had made it! Sean and Becky made it as well, but they didn’t seem to face the same apprehension I had, which is a credit to them. At the top we joined a few other satisfied explorers who were also enjoying the view and the great sense of accomplishment. The peak offered a range of views in every direction, and it was easy to see why Zion was turned into a national treasure. After taking pictures of our feat and the natural wonders and taking a short respite, we opted to venture back down cliff side.
Coming back down was much more enjoyable. After mastering my fear of heights, I was able to really appreciate the view much more. Even though it was tough to see due to all the fire smoke, it was still quite impressive. And although Zion lacked the same aesthetic as Yellowstone and there was obviously no replacement for our Yellowstone guide, there was definitely a greater personal sense of achievement for me by the end of our trek.
After wandering through the park and visiting a few more sights, we returned back to our cabin for a well-deserved nap after a nine-plus mile hike and twenty-plus days on the road.
Reader Comments (3)
Nice piece, Edmonds. Though I'm curious, why the initial qualification? It works well enough, but I'm wondering what the motivation was behind it? It didn't put me off in anyway, but it gave me the slightest sense of stalling or hesitating - rather than diving straight away into the meat of the piece.
-Corcoran
Beautifully done. The pictures are astounding and essay is rich in detail and captivating in style and language. I would have felt drawfed even writing next to those pictures. I do hope this type of post catches on with the readers and writers. Especially since I have no penchant for travel or adventure for cliffs.
You show what a post and website can do with quality writing and topic. It is a human piece and one that shows sensitivity, fear, awe and courage. That is a lot to get accomplished in 2000 words. If I ever do get out there, your essay will be playing in the background.
We may have to start a new category: Travel.
I loved the picture looking straight down. It reminds me of my trip to Mesa Verde in Colorado...except that I drove most of the way up the mountain. However, there is something more than the rush of fear when you get up that high. Maybe its the thinness of the air or the overwhelming scenery but I can see how people get addicted to hiking and climbing up mountains.